my lavender plakat

Health Effects

Many people considered feeding a fish every other day a healthier feeding regime because they feel it prevents a wide assortment of fish ailments. These claims are largely unsubstantiated as there is little to no evidence supporting or refuting the claim. It is however generally accepted that an every-other-day feeding regime is not harmful to fish.

Whatever feeding regime you chose to use for your fish tank, it is important to remain consistent

Exceptions

Fry almost always require hourly feedings of specialized food. Specific care instructions should be researched for every species of fry you are caring for. Some more uncommon fish do require daily sustenance, but these fish will not be typically found in your local pet store.

Variation of Food

It is equally important to vary the type of food you feed your fish. No single food source can supply 100% of the amino acids, vitamins and protein. A good variety of food will ensure the animal has a healthy immune system and a long life. Studies with farm fish have shown that even feeding commercial fish food is not as good as live food ^[1] [2]. Many fish are opportunists and will eat dead fish flesh even herbivores. So perhaps consider adding a monthly treat of a piece of raw fish like Tilapia or Salmon flesh ^[3].

Frequency of Feeding

Most aquarium owners feed their fish on a daily basis, or multiple times per day. This is generally considered an unnecessary amount of food, but there are exceptions which will be discussed below. One of the primary arguments for an every-other-day feeding regime is that a daily feeding is frequently more food then these fish would ever get in the wild.

An alternate method sometimes proposed as a compromise between the two schools of thought is to feed very small portions on a daily basis. This is thought accomplish the same goal, but will typically only work in a significantly understocked tank. This will not work on a over-stocked, or even a well stocked tank because a single (typically the dominant) fish will consume the majority. This could lead to starvation in some of your more timid fish.

Overfeeding

Overfeeding occurs when all of the food that is put into the tank is not consumed. The rule of thumb is that the food should be consumed within 1-2 minutes. The unconsumed food will sink to the bottom of the tank and begin to rot, adding ammonia to your tank. This condition can negatively affect the health of your fish by initiating a mini-cycle, stressing your fish. The sight of obese fish in peoples aquarium is very common.

Feeding Regime?

There is much debate as to the necessary frequency of feeding fish. It is important to know the reasons for this debate as there is no real consensus amongst fish keepers. (Note whilst this article talks about fish, most of it equally applied to other aquatic animals kept in aquariums.)

Caring for Fry

COMING SOON

Breeding Process

the wrap

So the nest has been built, the male is showing off, the female is showing vertical bars and is full of eggs, it's time to let them in together! When they first realise they can get to each other there will be a whole lot of confusion, chasing and nipping. This is where the bushy plant is handy for her to hide in. It will take several hours, to several days, for them to really realise what they're meant to be doing. If it looks like the female (or indeed the male) is getting too beat up, separate them. It can be almost instant, to 24-48 hours before they truly do the deed.

When they do manage to work it out they will both hang under the bubble nest, the female will hang with her head down in a submissive posture. The male will begin to wrap his body around hers, physically squeezing out the eggs from the female and fertilising them.

The eggs will begin to fall to the bottom of the tank, which is why a substrate is advised against as they will get lost. The breeding will pause frequently, both fish seeming paralysed for a few seconds, and then the male, occasionally the female, will begin to dash around frantically collecting the eggs and spitting them into the bubble nest. They will wrap several times more, when you are sure the female is empty of eggs, she can be removed to her tank to begin the process of recovery. Do not leave her in the tank, once she's finished she will swim away and try and hide, during this time the male will now see her as a threat and she could be injured, or even killed.

The male will stay with the nest until the fry are free-swimming. He will tend to the nest and not feed, mouthing the eggs, blowing bubbles, he may even entirely move the nest and eggs. He will spend most of his time underneath the nest watching the eggs, catching any that fall, he will often eat any infertile eggs. Some first-time dads may eat eggs or fry, if this is seen to be happening, it's best to move him out of the tank.

The fry should hatch in about 48 hours. They will wiggle about, you will see little tails hanging from the nest, and then they will start to fall. The devoted dad will dash about and catch these and put them back in the nest. The dad will spend most of his time for the next day or so catching these fry and putting them back in the nest. In a day or so the fry will develop their strength and be able to stay in the nest themselves and develop a horizontal swimming position. Once they are able to swim, the dad can be removed to recooperate.

Set Up and Introductions

First things first, your pair needs to be pampered for around 2 weeks to ensure they are at their optimum health. Treat them with IAL, live food such as bloodworm and immaculate water conditions in their 5 US Gallons (18.9L) tanks.

Female with horizontal bars

The next part of the process is to set up your 10 gallon tank. Add water but a maximum of only 4"-6" depth. Keep it bare-bottom, substrate would hide the eggs. Use the sponge filter, add a bushy plant (live plants work best to help keep the water healthier while the filter is off), some IAL, float the styrofoam cup securely in the tank. Make sure this tank has matured, in that there is as much good bacteria in the sponge filter as possible. Add the heater and set it to 80°F (26.7°C) .

Next, the male needs to be introduced to this tank. Add him slowly and carefully using the drip method (in a bag/cup, with tank water slowly dripped in for at least half an hour). Once he's in the tank, give him a day or so to get used to his surroundings.

Now it's time to introduce the female to him. She will need to be added to the glass chimney, so they can look, but not touch. The male will frolic and dance in front of the female, flaring and generally showing off. The female may or may not act receptive. She should be fairly eggy (fat with eggs) already, if not do not let her in with the male until she is. You will know she's ready for spawning if she's eggy and is showing vertical (not horizontal) bars. The male should be getting busy and building his bubble nest under the styrofoam cup, he will alternate between showing off and building his nest.

Choosing a Pair

Choosing a perfect breeding pair is essential, using any old pair will produce effectively mutt-babies. When breeding Bettas, having an aim for tail type and/or colour is key. A pair should be in optimum health and no older than 1 year, 6-8 months old is ideal.

When it comes to what fry you'll get from a pair, this when buying from another breeder has it's advantages as you will able to find out the family tree and work out what colour/fin types are recessive and what are dominant.

Betta genetics can get quite complicated and drawn out, but it is important to remember the two main dominant colours are red and blue, and the dominant (and undesirable) tail type is veil.

Shopping List

Theres quite a surprising amount of kit you need before you even being to get your pair together. This is the recommended equipment list, many breeders have their own, slightly different, tried and tested methods.

• 10 US Gallons (37.9L) tank
• 20 US Gallons (75.7L)-40 US Gallons (151.4L) grow-out tank
• 2x 5 US Gallons (18.9L) tanks, one for mum, one for dad
• At least 12-24 (the more the better) 1 US Gallons (3.8L) tanks for male grow outs
• Sponge filters each for the larger tanks, and another larger filter for the grow-out as the fry mature
• Glass Chimney - something tall enough the female can't get into the main tank
• Half a styrofoam cup
• Indian Almond Leaf
• Turkey Baster
• Bushy silk plants/live plants for the female to hide in in the 10 US Gallons (37.9L) tank
• Fish nets
• Medications: antibiotics for any injuries sustained
• Water conditioner
• Heaters for each of the larger tanks
• Grindal worm culture
• Brine Shrimp culture

Introduction to breed bettas

Breeding Betta splendens is quite a long and drawn out process, and there seem to be many misconceptions about it we hope this article will iron out. If you are planning any holidays, don't attempt to spawn some Bettas. It will take a good 6-8 months before your fry are ready to go on to new homes and will need round-the-clock care before then. Read on if you still have your heart set on being a Betta breeder.

Albino

The Holy Grail of Bettas. Albino Bettas are very rare, only a few have been confirmed. They do not have long lifespans and will go blind fairly early on in life, making it near impossible to breed them.

Copper

This is a highly iridescent strain of Betta that is proving to be very popular. It is silver or brown when under weak light, but when under good lighting it will shimmer a copper colour with purple or blue highlights. This colour originates from wild type Bettas who had a gold sheen to them. The copper gene has now been bred into various colours and new patterns are emerging all the time.

Chocolate

hocolate Bettas are so called as they do appear a rich brown in colour, and will often have yellow colouration through the fins. Not often seen.

Mustard Gas

This strange name refers to Bettas with a green, blue, or steel blue body and yellow or orange fins, it is a bicolour pattern.

Purple

Pure purple Bettas are almost unheard of but those close to it have been seen including rich violets, or blues with copper iridescence. Some purples may look blue or red in certain lights, and only show their true colour under bright light.

Black

There are 3 classes of Black Bettas. The first being Melano which are generally infertile, fertile Blacks or Black Lace/Black Orchid, and copper Blacks (with iridescence).

Orange Dalmation

Again, this is not often seen and can also be referred to as Apricot Spots. It is when the body is a pale orange as are the fins, but throughout the fins are much richer orange-red spots of varying size and shape.

Orange

Not often seen, Orange Bettas are usually a rich tangerine colour and can appear red in bad lighting.

Yellow & Pineapple

Yellow Bettas usually carry the desirable red-loss gene that causes Bettas to not have redwash. They will often also carry and throw fry that are iridescent Blue and Green. Yellow varies from very pale yellow to rich buttery yellow. Pineapple refers to yellow Bettas with darker definitions around their scales on their body, giving them a slightly "dirty" appearance.

Opaque

Opaque Bettas are a misty white in colour with hazy eyes. The gene that makes Bettas this colour also causes internal organ problems. A true pure opaque white is rare, and often there will be imperfections.

Cellophane/Pastel

Cellophane Bettas have a colour-less body and translucent fins with black eyes. Pastel Bettas have the almost-transulcent fins with hints of colour including blue, red or green, and the characteristic black eyes. The Grizzled Pastel has smatterings of broken colour in some of the scales on the body.

Wild-Type

Wild-type Bettas' colouration consists of a green or blue iridescent body with blue rays in the fins and all fins otherwise mostly red. Wild-Types can often also be hybrids with other types of Betta including Betta imbellis.

Green

True green is not often seen in Bettas, it is more often to be Turquoise.

Blue

There are several shades of Blue seen in Bettas. These are Steel Blue, where the blue is cold and greyish in appearance, Royal Blue, where the blue is rich, deep and vibrant and Turquoise, where the fish can appear both green and blue in certain lights. A Baby Blue is also available, but not often seen. Blue Bettas often have a dark blue or black face. The colour blue can show in red Bettas as bluewash.

Red

The colour red is dominant in Bettas, and can show in other colours as the undesirable red wash.

Multicolour

A multi betta is that with 3 or more colours on the body that does not fit into any other pattern category.

Dragon

A relatively new pattern that is proving to be exceptionally striking and popular. It features a rich strong base colour, often red, with the scales on the main part of the body a pale iridescent, sometimes copper colour. Both silver dragon and gold dragon strains have been created.

Mask

The term "mask" is mainly applied to Copper, Blue and Turquoise colours and refers to the face being the same colour as the body rather than what it would naturally be which would be darker than the body.

Piebald

A piebald coloured fish has a pale flesh-coloured face no matter what the body colour is. The rest of the body should be fairly solid, some other butterfly patterning may be present. Piebald fish carry the Marble gene.

Marble

The gene that creates marble patterning is becoming more common, it is usually a colour such as blue or red on a pale base. A marble betta has irregular patterns throughout the body and fins, that can change with age. It is a partially dominant gene meaning that if a solid betta is crossed with a marble it is likely to get many fry in solid colours that carry the marble gene.

Butterfly

A Butterfly has a solid body colour which extends into the base of the fins finishing with an abrupt strong edge with the rest of the fins being transparent or white. May also be referred to as variegated.

Cambodian or Bi-Coloured

A Cambodian Betta is when the body is pale, almost colourless, and the fins are a solid colour, often red or green. It can also be referred to, more traditionally, to red bettas with deep red fins and a pale pink body colour. This can work the other way which is when the fish is named Bi-Coloured, when the fins are translucent and the body is one solid colour.

Solid

Solid colours are exactly how they sound, when the fish is just one colour from nose to the tip of the tail. This is often seen mostly in Reds

Spade Tail

The Spade Tail (no abbreviation) has an equal spread on either side of the fin, similar to a Round Tail, but with tail finishing in a point rather than a rounded edge.

Over Halfmoon

The Over Halfmoon (or "OHM") is the extreme end of the Halfmoon where the spread when flared is over 180 degrees.